Perennial shrub vine grape (Vitis) belongs to the grape family. "Vitilis" - it is from this word that the name of the genus comes, and it is translated as "climbing". In natural conditions, there are about 70 species of such a plant that grow only in temperate and subtropical latitudes of the Northern Hemisphere.
Cultural grapes (Vitis vinifera) are grown in the gardens. This species is derived from the forest grape, which grows in the wild along the northern coast of the Mediterranean Sea and reaches the southernmost coast of the Caspian Sea. But cultural grapes are found only in vineyards and do not grow in nature.
Content
Features of grapes
When grown in favorable conditions, the length of the lashes of cultivated grapes can reach 30-40 m. And those bushes that grow in regions with a cool climate, the maximum length of shoots is 300 cm. The grapes cling to the support with tendrils. Young shoots are covered with pale yellow or light red bark. At the same time, the bark on adult trunks is peeling brown in color, and there are deep grooves on its surface. Three to five-lobed whole leaf plates are alternately located and have petioles.
Flowering begins in May or June. At this time, paniculate inflorescences are formed, consisting of bisexual small flowers of a pale green color. The beginning of fruiting occurs in late summer or early autumn. In this case, the ripening of the fruits of late-ripening varieties occurs in October.
The bunches can have different sizes and shapes, and they consist of berries that are highly juicy. Each fruit contains 1–4 seeds. And there are varieties with no seeds in their berries. The color of the fruit can be different - yellow, dark red, green or purple-black. Until 1963, the lifespan of cultivated grapes was about 150 years. But then phylloxera appeared on the territory of European countries. This pest poses a great danger to grapes.
Planting grapes in autumn
What time to plant
In autumn, planting grape seedlings in open ground can be carried out from early October until the very frost. Please note that the grapes must be planted at least 1–1.5 weeks before the first frost. Gardeners prefer to plant grapes in the fall, not in the spring, because the buds are in a state of sleep at this time, and the root system is still actively growing. That is why, with the onset of spring, the active development of young shoots begins in the bushes planted in autumn. In addition, at this time of the year it is very convenient to plant grape seedlings purchased in the fall, since in this case they do not need to be stored until spring.
Landing place
This plant is distinguished by its light-requiring. When choosing a place suitable for planting, preference should be given to an open area that has reliable protection from drafts and gusts of cold wind. It is highly undesirable to plant such a shrub vine near large trees. The fact is that they cast a thick shadow, and they also suck out most of the nutrients from the soil, which negatively affects the development of the plant.
How to choose seedlings in the fall
It is best to only buy grape seedlings from reputable sellers. But even in this case, you need to choose a seedling very carefully. If the height of the annual green stem of the plant is 0.4-0.5 m, and in diameter it reaches 0.7-0.8 cm, then it must have at least 3 brownish roots, which reach at least 0.2 in diameter –0.3 cm, and in length - from 10 to 15 cm. The buds of the seedling should be well ripened, and the root system should not be dry.
Shortly before planting, the stems of the seedlings must be cut so that 3 or 4 eyes remain. After that, the roots on the upper nodes are cut off, and the remaining roots are slightly shortened. Then the root system of the seedlings is immersed in a solution of a root growth stimulator (for example, Heteroauxin) for half a day (12 hours).
Autumn planting rules
The preparation of the landing pits is done in advance. Their size should be 50x50x60 cm. A drainage layer with a thickness of 50 to 70 mm is laid on the bottom of each pit, for this you can use pieces of brick or crushed stone. A sheet of thick paper is laid on top of the drainage, and a drainage pipe is installed under the wall. It will be used in the future for watering and feeding the grapes. After that, about 20 liters of nutrient soil, 10 liters of humus, one handful of wood ash and 1 tbsp. Should be poured into the pit. nitroammophos. Mix everything well, and then pour enough soil into the hole to make it full. For planting, it is recommended to use only the top nutrient layer of the soil, which remained after the preparation of the planting holes. Water the hole several times abundantly, as a result of which the soil should settle in it. After that, the pit should still stand for about half a month. Immediately after preparing the hole, planting a seedling is extremely undesirable, since the soil, during settling, pulls the roots of the bush to a great depth, which leads to their injury. Experienced gardeners recommend preparing such pits in the first days of August. When planting two or more seedlings, a distance of at least 100 cm should be maintained between them.
Before planting the grapes, 10 liters of soil are poured into the middle of the pit in such a way that a slide is formed. A plant is placed on top of it, then spread the roots and fill the hole with fertile soil until it grows. If the plant is short, then it is placed vertically on the mound. And if it is longer than 25 centimeters, then it should be installed in the hole obliquely so that the heel is buried in the soil by half a meter, and the base of the growth is at a depth of 25 centimeters.
When the hole is covered with soil, be sure to tamp its surface and pour 20 to 30 liters of water under the seedling. When the liquid is absorbed into the ground, cover the seedling on top with a cut transparent plastic bottle.
Grape care in autumn
Watering
After the entire harvest is harvested from the grape bushes in the autumn, they will need to be watered only in hot, dry weather. To prepare the root system of the plant for winter, only one plentiful watering is carried out in October, which is called subwinter. If, during the preparation of the planting pit, a special irrigation pipe was not installed, then make several not too deep grooves near the plant. This is necessary so that during watering of the plant, the liquid goes into the soil in those places where its root system is located, and does not spread over the site. Remember to systematically loosen the soil around the grapes. This will keep the soil loose and prevent the soil from drying out too quickly.
Transfer
Experts recommend that the transplant of this culture should be carried out precisely in the autumn. This must be done after flying around all the foliage from the bushes, but before frosts begin. During transplantation, try not to injure the rhizome of grapes, which is distinguished by its fragility.
Preparing a pit for transplanting is carried out in the same way as for planting a seedling. The transplant of three-year-old bushes is carried out together with a lump of earth, while the rhizome does not need to be shortened. In order for the earthen lump to remain intact, it is recommended not to water the vines for several days before transplanting. Older plants, which are 5-7 years old, need to be dug in a circle, retreating from the stem about 0.5 m. Try to dig in the bush as deep as possible, but remember that the root can go into the soil to a depth of 150 cm, therefore You will not be able to completely pull it out of the ground. When the plant is removed from the soil, carefully remove all soil from its root system, and then trim off the old parts of the rhizome. Also, prune the vines, leaving a maximum of 2 arms on the bush, each of which should have 1-2 vines. And also do a little shortening of the upper parts of the branches. Places of cuts are "sealed" with wax. Next, the root system is immersed in a clay mash for a minute, into which manganese potassium must be added. The bush is placed obliquely in the pit. Further actions are exactly the same as when planting a seedling (see above). Transplanting grapes in autumn is carried out at the same time as planting a seedling. In this case, he will have time to take root well and overwinter normally in a new place.
Top dressing of grapes in autumn
When the picking is over, the plants will be very weak. That is why they will need mandatory feeding in order to properly prepare for wintering. Autumn feeding is carried out systematically 1 time in 3 or 4 years. Organic fertilizer is perfect for this. For example, the surface of the soil near the plant can be covered with a layer of peat mixed with wood ash, or rotted manure. Remember that an excess of nutrients in the soil is much more harmful for grapes than a lack of them. This is why over-fertilizing the soil should be avoided.
Grape processing in autumn
After the completion of the harvest, it is required to carry out preventive treatment of all grape bushes. This will help protect them from both various diseases and pests. Since all the berries have already been harvested, special potent pesticides can be used to spray the crop. As a rule, they spray the bushes just before their shelter for the winter. After pruning, the stems are tied, and then they are treated with a solution of ferrous sulfate (5–7%); for its preparation, from 50 to 70 g of the product is added to 1 liter of water. This drug helps to protect the plant from many diseases and pests, however, it is completely harmless to powdery mildew and ticks, in this case it is recommended to use colloidal sulfur or Tiovit.Rovikurt will help to get rid of the grape budworm, while it is recommended to use Polychom or Fundazol to combat cercospora.
Reproduction of grapes in autumn
In autumn, for the reproduction of such a plant, it is recommended to use shanks or cuttings. Pruning bushes in the fall can be combined with harvesting cuttings. They are stored until spring, after which they are disembarked at the school. If you wish, you can try to root them in the winter in indoor conditions. For cutting cuttings, choose a fully ripe vine, which should be at least 0.7 cm in diameter. Also, the vine should be a hard brownish or dark brown shade, if you bent it, you can hear a slight crackle. Green shoots cannot be used for harvesting cuttings. Still a suitable vine must be fruitful, while "bunch tails" must be present on it. Also note that the vine should not show any damage or signs of dangerous diseases such as mildew, oidium or phylloxera.
After finding a suitable vine, start cutting cuttings, the length of which can vary from 0.3 to 0.4 m. Each cut must have at least 3 buds. Your main task is to prevent all moisture from evaporating from the cuttings, otherwise they simply will not take root. In this regard, during cutting, the cuts must be made in such a way that the cutting on both sides ends either with a "tail" from the bunch or with antennae. In such internodes there is a membrane that is able to protect the shank from excessive moisture loss. The harvested cuttings are immersed in water, where they should stay for 6 to 8 hours. Dry them and carry out the treatment with a phytodoctor. On each stalk, put a tag with the name of the variety (so as not to get confused) and tie them several pieces in bunches. To store the shanks, choose a damp and cold place (0-5 degrees), for example, a basement, a refrigerator, or they can be buried in the soil in the garden. Before placing the cuttings on the refrigerator shelf, they are wrapped in a damp cotton cloth and then stored in a perforated plastic bag. As the fabric dries, it must be moistened again with clean water. Rooting of shanks is carried out in spring.
Autumn grape pruning for beginners
What time is the pruning
If the grapes are pruned in a timely manner, it will be much easier for you to care for them, as well as to harvest. Regular pruning can also increase the yield of your bushes. Grape growers did not immediately realize that there is a close relationship between pruning and grape yield. One funny case helped this: back in the days when the Roman Empire existed, winegrowers noticed that those bushes that were eaten by a donkey last season are distinguished by high yield and the best growth. Since that time, grape bushes have been pruned every year. Thanks to this, not only does the number of fruits increase, but they also become tastier and larger.
Formative pruning is recommended in the fall, especially if varieties are used for cultivation that require mandatory shelter for the winter. After all the foliage has flown from the bushes, wait 15–20 days and start pruning. If you cut the grapes ahead of time, because of this, the roots and stems of the bushes will not be able to receive the full amount of the nutrients they need. If you cut it off later than the due date, then this can lead to injury to the whips, because with a strong cold snap they become very brittle. But do not forget to pre-cut in September.
Remember that in the spring, when sap flow begins, it is by no means possible to cut this crop.It will take more than one day for the cuts to completely tighten. Therefore, the spring pruning leads to the fact that the plant begins to "cry", or rather, to leak juice. As a result, the harvest on such bushes will be more meager or they will die altogether.
Trimming scheme
In autumn, the vine is pruned in two stages:
- First step... This is a kind of preparation of plants for later pruning. The bushes are cut in the first autumn days; for this, extra green growths are cut out on each perennial stem, located below the first wire, which should be stretched at a height of about 50 cm from the surface of the site. The increments located on the sleeves above this wire are minted, for this they are shortened by 10-15% of the entire length. Lateral shoots located on the growths are subjected to shortening to two or three leaf plates.
- Second phase... After the end of the leaf fall, wait until 15–20 days have passed, then proceed to the formation of the fruit link, which should include a fruit arrow and a replacement knot. The most frost-resistant varieties are cut first, for example: December, Lydia, Isabella or Gift. The most thermophilic varieties must be cut off last. At the height of the lower two wires of the trellis, find a pair of the most developed stems, and the lower one should be located on the outside of the sleeve, which grows at an angle. This stem should be cut under the replacement knot, and no more than 3 eyes should remain on it from the base. The second stem, which grows higher and on the opposite side of the sleeve (relative to the replacement knot), is pruned under the fruit arrow, while the number of remaining eyes depends on its thickness: 0.5 cm diameter - 5 eyes, 0.6 cm - 6 eyes, 0 , 7 cm - 7 or 8 eyes, 0.8 cm - 8-9 eyes, 0.9 cm - from 9 to 11 eyes, 1 cm - from 11 to 13 eyes, 1.1 cm - from 12 to 14 eyes, 1.2 cm - 13 to 15 eyes. If your vine has bunches weighing more than 0.5 kg, then the fewest possible eyes should be left on the fruit arrow (see above). If the mass of the bunches is less than half a kilogram, then leave the largest number of eyes. For example, if the bunches forming on the bush have a mass of less than 0.5 kg, then with a stem thickness of 1.1 cm, 14 eyes are left on the fruit arrow, and if they weigh more than half a kilogram, then 12 eyes.
Pruning grapes in the Moscow region
In the Moscow region, grapes began to be cultivated in the 17th century. However, it was only after the breeders bred varieties of cultivated grapes that winter well under cover that the growers began to collect relatively rich harvests. These varieties are also good because, when grown in the Moscow region, they practically do not get sick and almost do not need preventive treatments for various diseases. The most popular are the following similar varieties: Cardinal, Arcadia, Kodryanka, Delight, Timur, Kuban, Izuminka, etc.
Vines are pruned in the Moscow region at the same time and in the same way as those that grow in warmer areas (for example, in the Crimea or in the southern part of Ukraine). But at the same time, they need better shelter for the winter.
Pruning grapes in Siberia
The grapes grown in Siberia are cut only in autumn. If you cover uncut bushes for the winter, then in spring, after the air temperature under the shelter rises to 5 degrees or more, rot will appear on those shoots that have not matured. As a result, when the cover is removed, you will find that the stems are covered with green (due to rotten buds) or gray mold. All bushes will have to be uprooted and new ones planted.In addition, the cut plant is significantly reduced in size, which makes it easier to remove from the support and cover.
Remember that in Siberia, the wood of young vines is not able to ripen on its own. That is why in the autumn time the gardener should try to speed up this process. To do this, from the middle to the end of September, you should clear the base of the stem and carry out thinning pruning: cut out green and twisted shoots, antennae, as well as the remaining stepsons. Thanks to this, all vines, without exception, will receive the required amount of sunlight. First, the upper part of the grapes is cut, and then they go down lower and lower. Remember that the bushes of the first and second years of growth do not need preliminary pruning. Plants planted in the current season only need to trim the top. Moreover, in the bushes of the second year of growth, only tops and stepsons should be cut.
The second and final pruning in the current season is carried out only after the leaves on the bushes are completely frozen after the first severe frost. When this happens, nutrients will stop moving from the stems to the root system, so you can safely start pruning. In this case, the grapes are cut from the bottom of it. The second autumn pruning is carried out in the same way as described above (the formation of the fruit link is important).
After the average daily temperature is no higher than minus 5 degrees, the bushes are laid on the ground, and spruce branches are thrown on top. In the future, the fallen snow will become an additional shelter for the vines.
Preparing grapes for winter
How to prepare grapes for winter
In those regions where winters are frosty, grapes need a mandatory shelter, especially those varieties that are characterized by low winter hardiness. Bushes are especially carefully covered if the winter in the region is little snow. To begin with, carry out pruning and preventive treatment of the plant from diseases and pests. The preparation of grapes for shelter is carried out from the last days of October to the second half of November. A temporary decrease in air temperature to 7-8 degrees will not harm it, but on the contrary will become a kind of hardening.
If the bush is young, it will be enough to cover it with a layer of soil for the winter. But if the air temperature can drop below minus 15 degrees, then the bush is additionally covered from above with a box made of wood and sheathed with roofing material.
Shelter for the winter
If the vine is already adult, then it is placed in a "tunnel" made of plastic film: remove the stems from the supports and lay them on the soil surface, cover them with spruce branches, and install greenhouse arches from above, then stretch the film over them. To prevent the polyethylene from ripping off, its edges are pressed with heavy stones or covered with soil. Do not block the exit and entrance of the tunnel, this will allow the plants to harden, provide good ventilation, and thanks to this, immature shoots will have time to ripen. However, if the frost is stronger than minus 15 degrees, these holes in the tunnel must be closed.
In the event that it is not too cold in your region in winter, a lot of snow falls, and the grape varieties in your garden are highly resistant to frost, then the bushes will be able to winter perfectly well without shelter.
